Sarek diaries
Day 8. Back to Kungsleden
14.09. Distance: 21.2 km
This day turned out to be the richest in terms of impressions and excitement. Our morning, as usual, started with a cup of coffee and a wonderful view.
However, the first stage of the road already brought its own set of difficulties. When we prepared for the trip we didn’t get the right information about where the trail along the slope pass was. We did see several photos on the Internet that showed the beginning and the end of the path. But the middle part remained a mystery. So, we ventured out at random.
As a result, we went a little to the left and higher than was needed, and then faced a very steep descent. But there was nothing we could do about it, we simply had no choice but to go down at this spot. It was difficult, but we managed. On the map, we marked in blue the route that would probably be the safest to take.
The route then took us along the slope of Rapadalen. The view from here is wonderful, although Skjerfe was practically invisible.
Skjerfe is the most visited spot in Sarek. Here our journey through this wonderful park ended.
But there was still one and a half days to go. We had to get to the Kungsleden trail and move on it. The marked path goes down to the Aktse hut so we decided to take a short cut. And here again we were misled by a false path. It seemed to be leading in the right direction, but soon the path disappeared and brought us into a thicket of dense wet bushes.
So do not be misled by such paths and instead go above the tree line (on the map – marked in green).
Eventually, we found the right path to Kungsleden and continued on. Compared to the trails we had walked in previous days, it was like a highway. Soon we had to conquer our last task – crossing the Sitojaure lake.
During the summer there is regular ferry service. But in mid September it stops working. We needed to negotiate separately with the owner of the boat, Lars, and we did this through Facebook. Lars replied, "Call when you are on the way to the lake. There must be mobile phone coverage."
There really is such a place - a specially marked sign approximately midway between Aktse and Sitojaure. Unfortunately, we could not get through to any of the numbers indicated on the sign. By that time the weather had turned bad - it had already been raining for a couple of hours. Wet and frozen, we could not wait any longer. We sent a message that at 9 a.m. we would be waiting for the boat on the pier.
Of course, there is an alternative way of crossing Sitojaure lake – by row boat. The distance to row is about 4.5-5 km. However, here, as well as on other lakes along Kungsleden, the "rule of three boats" operates. There must be at least one boat left at every bank. So, if you arrive at shore and there is only one boat, you must first row over, take the second boat, go back , leave it and then again row to the other bank. In total, you have to cross the lake 3 times (15 km). Only then can you continue along the trail.
Already approaching the shore, we met a colleague, another hiker. He said that there was only one boat. He sailed here on it. Ups! But good news – he heard that on the other bank there were two girls who were going to cross the lake tomorrow morning. So, with our hopes up for tomorrow, we went to sleep.
